Tuesday, July 10, 2012

Surfing: Beginning and Now

I can still remember the first wave I ever stood up on. I was thirteen. It was a calm, sunny afternoon at Pupukeas, next to Ehukai Beach Park, on the North Shore. My best friend and I would take our boogie boards out every day and ride the surf after school. On this one day in particular she dared me to paddle out on my older brothers surfboard. My first thought was,"No way! I have no idea how to move that thing!" But being the risk-taking-Tom-girl I was, I took her up on her silly dare!

I remember so very clearly paddling hard for a little wave, wobbling up to my feet, and standing there awkwardly for just a few seconds before I crashed off to the side. But that was all it took for me. From that moment on, I was hooked forever!

Surfing has been so many things for me in my life. Being out in the ocean has provided a place of solitude and peace, a place to connect with God, a place to heal from hurt feelings and deep wounds, a place to enjoy the beauty of nature, and a place to challenge myself physically and mentally. Surfing has always fullfilled me in the ways I needed, when I needed it. I am happy when I'm surfing, and that's why I continue to do it.

Now that I am a mother, surfing is offering me another chance to connect with myself again. Motherhood, and especially homeschooling 3 boys, is very demanding on my time and energy. There's days where I am head high in laundry, projects, and poopy diapers, and can't seem to catch a breath! But the moment I get out in the water and start surfing, well, my mind becomes calm and I can breathe again. I feel freedom in my soul, and a renewed determination to be a better mother!

My future dream is to teach my husband and boys how to surf. Here in Hilo there aren't many good beginner spots to teach or surf at, so for now they are having fun boogie boarding in the shorebreak, while I tackle the tougher stuff farther out.
Happy Surfing, friends. Do what you love!

**addendum to this post: We have moved to Utah, so basically the closest thing I've got to surfing is paddling my board across the reservoir in the summertime, when it's not completely frozen over. But, I want to say that I am still happy! There is an inner peace inside me knowing that I am right where I'm suppose to be. I've been blessed to find other ways to relax, rejuvenate, challenge myself, and connect with nature. Surfing will always be my #1 passion in life, but God has surprised me with other joys I never knew. (Have you ever tried trail running? Awesome!)

1 comment:

chelsea mckell said...

I can relate a little to this, expect w/ running! It's nice to have an outlet - something you can do for a little while to just "get away" mentally and physically. So that when you come back you're better and ready for anything!