Saturday, July 7, 2012

Back in Surf Shape Mama

Now that we are living closer to the one and only good surfing spot in Hilo, I'm surfing an average of 2 times a week. This is way up from the nearly zero times a week while we were living out in Puna. I'm feeling pretty stoked!
It's been an amazing journey for me, getting back into surfing shape. When I was in high school and my early 20's, I surfed almost every day, sometimes twice a day. I was up at the crack of dawn, out in the heat of day, and surfing into the sunsets. I didn't really think about the stamina and strength it took to be in that sort of shape. I could literally surf for hours, only coming in when I had to work or go to school, or eat, I suppose.

When we moved back here a year ago I had been living in Utah, had pushed out three babies, and the only exercizing I was getting was running a few times a week and carrying baby Jonah. So although my mind was really pumped to get back in the water, my body needed some time to adjust.

Every time I paddle out I remind myself that I am getting a good workout, and not to worry about catching waves. I've been focusing my energy on training; doing push-ups and sit-ups, and getting strong enough to push my board under the water for a duck dive. This has really helped me feel stronger and more confident out in the bigger surf, especially on days where ducking is all I end up doing!
It's been really frustrating at times, though,because I have years of surfing expereince under me, yet my body doesn't perform in the way I want it to. For instance, this morning I paddled out at Honoli'i in 4-5 foot surf. The waves were fairly steep, quick, and perfect for fun, fast rides. I paddled hard for an overhead wave, pushed myself to get up, then lost strength and face-planted into the crashing white-wash. I was so close to getting up, but my muscles collapsed under me. Oh the irritation!
I decided, however, to turn that frustration into determination, because getting mad at myself won't make me an instantly-better surfer.

I know I have a long way to go as far as getting back in shape, but I am happy where I am right now, as well. I never thought I would be back sufing again, and I am enjoying every step of the process!
One of my favorite things about surfing is looking back onto the beach to see my 3 boys and my husband cheering me on. Sometimes I cut my session short, just so I can go play on the beach with them.


Hanging out by the Honoli'i river with our favorite duck.

3 comments:

bedheadmom said...

You inspire me!

Sallyseashell said...

You inspire me! I feel like I have come to peace with my technology life because of your influence. I was always fighting against the internet, but I have seen how it can bless lives, as well. Thank you for your wonderful website, bedhead Mom!

Zen Mama said...

I love this post! I'm making similar discoveries with what I was able to physically do in my early twenties that I can't do now and how I took it for granted back then.

Also, love the new blog. Pretty!