Now that we are living closer to the one and only good surfing spot in Hilo, I'm surfing an average of 2 times a week. This is way up from the nearly zero times a week while we were living out in Puna. I'm feeling pretty stoked!
When we moved back here a year ago I had been living in Utah, had pushed out three babies, and the only exercizing I was getting was running a few times a week and carrying baby Jonah. So although my mind was really pumped to get back in the water, my body needed some time to adjust.
Every time I paddle out I remind myself that I am getting a good workout, and not to worry about catching waves. I've been focusing my energy on training; doing push-ups and sit-ups, and getting strong enough to push my board under the water for a duck dive. This has really helped me feel stronger and more confident out in the bigger surf, especially on days where ducking is all I end up doing!
It's been really frustrating at times, though,because I have years of surfing expereince under me, yet my body doesn't perform in the way I want it to. For instance, this morning I paddled out at Honoli'i in 4-5 foot surf. The waves were fairly steep, quick, and perfect for fun, fast rides. I paddled hard for an overhead wave, pushed myself to get up, then lost strength and face-planted into the crashing white-wash. I was so close to getting up, but my muscles collapsed under me. Oh the irritation!
I decided, however, to turn that frustration into determination, because getting mad at myself won't make me an instantly-better surfer.
I know I have a long way to go as far as getting back in shape, but I am happy where I am right now, as well. I never thought I would be back sufing again, and I am enjoying every step of the process!
One of my favorite things about surfing is looking back onto the beach to see my 3 boys and my husband cheering me on. Sometimes I cut my session short, just so I can go play on the beach with them.