Thursday, October 18, 2012

Thursday Surfday!

I just got back from one of the best surf sessions, ever! I feel so good I want to shout for joy, so I am.... only in words.... on my blog. Consider this a shout for joy,  virtual style- YAYA! 

There's some things in life that just make me feel GOOD, and surfing is one of them.
The first wave I caught was the best one; a long right that took me all the way across the break.
The waves I caught after that were subpar, but I didn't care. I was just so stoked to be out in the water surfing, that any wave that came my way was fun.
A great surfer quote I heard once said, "The best surfer out there is the one having the most fun."

So true, so true.
It doesn't matter how good you are, if you are having a blast. It took me a long time to get to the point when I was learning as a teen, (where I was having a blast and not flailing in the white-wash.) But, once I got past the frustration point, it became pure, adrenaline-pumping fun.

I was on such a high when I got out of the water today that I just laughed at all the ganja smokers smoke, wafting into my nostrils. You know, the guys sitting in their cars getting an extra-high after their surf session;  I just thought to myself, "Pity that surfing isn't enough for you." It's certainly more than enough for me."

Another quote that I love is, "Only a surfer knows the feeling." 
If I could find the bumper sticker, I'd put it on my car next to the shaka.

Hang Loose, my friends and Happy Thursday!


arianne said...

Yeah for surfing. I'm feeling pretty land locked after reading this. The kids want to try your stress balls. Miss you!

Da Denninghoff's said...

So fun!

Sally Jackson said...

Miss you, too Arianne! I'm getting all this surfing in while we think about moving back to Utah next Summer. :)