There's some things in life that just make me feel GOOD, and surfing is one of them.
The first wave I caught was the best one; a long right that took me all the way across the break.
The waves I caught after that were subpar, but I didn't care. I was just so stoked to be out in the water surfing, that any wave that came my way was fun.
A great surfer quote I heard once said, "The best surfer out there is the one having the most fun."
So true, so true.
It doesn't matter how good you are, if you are having a blast. It took me a long time to get to the point when I was learning as a teen, (where I was having a blast and not flailing in the white-wash.) But, once I got past the frustration point, it became pure, adrenaline-pumping fun.
I was on such a high when I got out of the water today that I just laughed at all the ganja smokers smoke, wafting into my nostrils. You know, the guys sitting in their cars getting an extra-high after their surf session; I just thought to myself, "Pity that surfing isn't enough for you." It's certainly more than enough for me."
Another quote that I love is, "Only a surfer knows the feeling."
If I could find the bumper sticker, I'd put it on my car next to the shaka.
Hang Loose, my friends and Happy Thursday!