I paddled out at Honoli'is yesterday for one of the very last times before we leave next week. The sky was rainy, dark, and overcast with clouds, yet the surf was perfect and inviting as ever. I love that place!
It is one of the only places to get waves here in Hilo, and I have to admit, It is the only place I have surfed on this entire island since we moved here! The spot expands over a large bay area with 3 separate breaks, from Tombstones on the right to Privates in the middle, to The Point on the left. Every time I paddle out I feel a happy, wholesome vibe of welcoming and relaxation. I haven't once felt that strained, anxious feeling of competitiveness like surfing on the North Shore can bring. Growing up on the North Shore of Oahu I often felt like I had to prove myself as soon as I got in the water, or I wouldn't be able to get any more waves that day. For example, If I could catch a good wave right off the bat, then it would signify that I could catch more good waves, and therefore wouldn't committ the crime of letting any go to waste. -Then on crowded days people would be more likely to back down and let me paddle for waves even when it's not technically my turn, or even though they are in a better position. This wasn't always the case, but when you are most often the only girl surfing amongst highly competitive, testosterone-driven men (or Australian women), it helps to prove that you can surf with them.
At Honoli'is, however, I don't have to prove myself to anyone. There's more than enough waves for our small Hilo population, and more than enough families having fun in the water for that anxious feeling to surface. The giant Honu (sea-turtles) bobbing up and down, take up half the space out there alone! I believe that their calming presence brings peace to this surf break, and peace to my soul.
Yesterday the surf was a super fun, mellow 2-3 feet. I rode my 6'8 shortboard and got more waves than I expected because there were so few people out. Stoked! I got my surf stoke on!
Yes, I will miss surfing terribly. Afterall, It is one of my all-time favorite things to do on the planet. However, one valuable thing I've learned in life is not to let a place define you. Hawaii, and therefore surfing ,does not define who I am nor determine my happiness! When I put my life in God's hands, I feel truly blessed no matter where I live or what I do.
A Hui Ho Honoli'is for all the good vibes, mellow surf sessions, and many, many Honu and Humpback whale sightings. I will forever be grateful that I spent some of my best mama surfing years chilling with you.